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The Wigwam Inn. Even the name evokes this sense of mystery and historical intrigue. It was built in 1910 as a luxury German Biergarten resort and fishing lodge. Tucked away at the most remote tip of Burrard Inlet’s Indian Arm, there used to be a daily steamship that brought guests and supplies from Vancouver. In its gloriest of days, guests such as John D. Rockfeller and John Jacob Astor of oil, fur, and illuminati fame stayed there. Beginning in 1963 the property was bought and sold several times, and even was raided once by the RCMP when it was incarnated as a gambling casino. Currently an outstation of the RVYC, Adam has talked about going to this place since he first started taking me out boating many years ago. And now a trip has been planned, with 10 of our pals, for Cap’n Adam’s 40th birthday!
Our birthday party crew met at the boat in Coal Harbour at 1100 hours. After sorting out the overnight-parking-in-Stanley-Park issue, we untied and headed out. A brief stop for diesel, then we motored further into Burrard Inlet. As we approached the Second Narrows, Cap’n Adam remembered that there is a CN Rail drawbridge on the other side of the Iron Worker’s Memorial Bridge. We had to radio ahead so that they could raise it and give us enough room for our mast to pass underneath. Although this is standard marine protocol, it did make us feel pretty special that they raised and lowered a bridge for us!
Once through the narrows, the water became flat although the cold winds were blowing. After a round of rum shots to warm all of our bellies, we made ourselves comfortable to take in the views and enjoy the ride. Off our port side we watched North Vancouver transition into Deep Cove, and off our starboard side we saw Burnaby’s oil refinery and railways become Belcarra on the other side of Port Moody. We did a drive-by of the McBarge in the waters off north Burnaby, a dated and strangely kitchy graffitied left-over of the Expo 86 party. Further up Indian Arm near Bunzen Lake Recreation Area was an old BC Hydro generator, a stone building squeaking out a somewhat eerie existence in this supernatural British Columbian coastal forest.
After a few hours we passed on the east side of Croker Island. At the far end of the inlet we could see the Wigwam Inn – it grew in grandeur as we approached. We docked, unpacked our coolers and bags, and headed up to check the place out. A welcoming porch overlooked the dock, and big brass-plated doors adorned with images of native carvings opened into a dark wood foyer with a large stone fireplace. Further exploration revealed an impressive dining room, industrial and conventional kitchen space, a games room with pool & foosball & air hockey, a TV room, a library, and 2 floors of guest bedrooms each with a queen sized bed and en suite bathroom.
While some of us poured ourselves an evening cocktail, Sam and JP fired up the barbeques and prepared our dinner. Late afternoon became early evening, and that soon became bedtime as most of us were exhausted enough to find our beds before 2300 hours (although a few nite-owls stayed up into the wee hours…).
After hearty breakfasts and coffee, we packed ourselves up again and headed back towards the big city. We were traveling with the tide now, and that helped turn our 4.5 hour departure journey into a homeward journey that took less than 3 hours. We passed by the magnificent Silver Falls on our way home, and tried to keep ourselves dry as the rains came down. We arrived back at Coal Harbour with a few hours of sun still remaining in the day, and a tired but happy crew.
Thank you to Sam & Kath, Shannon & Shawn, Mike & Jeannette, Donna, Angela, Rodrigo, and John-Paul for joining us this weekend! You helped to make Adam’s 40th birthday fun and memorable!!
Now, if only we can find that damn propeller that fell off as we were docking in Coal Harbour…
